Two hours South of Memphis spans the cotton fields and small but mighty towns of the Delta, a region with a narrative so palpable and ever-present, from the landscape to the cuisine. Alex and I were invited to stay in Cleveland at the new Cotton House Hotel, and we coincidentally selected a date that also marked Greenville’s world-famous Delta Hot Tamale Festival. So, on an early Saturday morning, we dropped off Sawyer at Brown Dog Lodge and made our way down South with empty stomachs and full anticipation ahead.
Our road trip was met with new discoveries and definite highlights, which I’ve compiled for you to reserve for your next open weekend.
DELTA HOT TAMALE FESTIVAL (GREENVILLE)
The 2020 dates are already set—October 15-17, 2020—so plan accordingly! The Delta Hot Tamale Festival in Greenville celebrates local and regional legends in the tamale category in addition to a full artists’ market and music line-up. Our pro tip: Sign up in advance for the Taste of the Festival lunch on Saturday — your 45-minute tasting, for $25/person, serves you eight award-winning tamales with craft beer pairings in a seated space off the street! We had an epic experience tasting the variety from BBQ chicken to venison tamales!
MCCARTY’S POTTERY (MERIGOLD)
I was gifted my first piece of McCarty’s for our wedding and am still in awe of the production from its whimsical headquarters in Merigold, just 5 minutes away from Cleveland. McCarty’s’ pieces are each uniquely shaped and glazed — I’m especially fond of the signature Mississippi River mark in charcoal on each individual item. I left with a stack of mini bowls that sit proudly on our floating shelves.
COTTON HOUSE HOTEL (CLEVELAND)
Arriving at the Cotton House Hotel is indeed a grandiose homecoming. Its expansive facade and size are not to be missed, but the warmth within its walls utter contemporary Southern hospitality at every turn. You can sense the newness of the Marriott boutique brand from the community lobby to the private in-room finishes, all clean and crisp for hotel guests. The bed was incredibly comfortable, and the roomy bathroom with walk-in shower was an extra plus. Overall, we were incredibly pleased.
THE GRAMMY MUSEUM (CLEVELAND)
Visitors gain the Hollywood star treatment at Cleveland’s newest Grammy Museum. Its modern architecture alone impresses, and the interiors gleam with interactive music exhibits, an unbelievable wardrobe collection, and nostalgic snippets of acceptance speeches and performances from over the years. Don’t miss the intro video — all 24 minutes. Trust me.
DELTA MEAT MARKET (CLEVELAND)
Some see a “hotel restaurant” as an added convenience only for those who aren’t in the mood to venture out or explore a city; but in this case, Cleveland has done it right. Delta Meat Market, a quickly-recognized fixture of fine Southern cooking, was originally located across the street and strategically shifted to the hotel property. The result? A hyperlocal, refined, memorable restaurant experience in the comfort of our vacation destination. Cleveland-born, Charleston-trained chef/owner Cole Ellis is as kind as he is talented. From prime steaks to pomme frites and Delta grits, we were stuffed and oh so satisfied.
BAR FONTAINE (CLEVELAND)
The rooftop of The Cotton House is not to be missed. Bar Fontaine brings Southern charm to a contemporary crowd, reminding me of a big-city rooftop bar with buzzing cocktails and brimming with people. The menu is entirely different than the ground-floor Delta Meat Market, and we were amused by the variety of small plates, flatbreads, and a handful of additional creative dishes using seasonal ingredients. We devoured the fancy “fried fontina” cheese sticks.
